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Should I run a 10 micron or a 30 micron oil filter? A micron rating is given to show the efficiency of the oil filter (one micron is a millionth of a meter). This leads consumers to believe that the 10 micron filter must be better for their bike. Here is where it can get confusing; though the 10 micron filter may have a higher filtration rating it does not allow the oil to return to the tank as fast. With this in mind, the 10 micron filter was developed for use with the Twin Cam style engine, which has a different oiling system that allows oil to be forced through a more restrictive oil filter. The reason for the tighter filtration was explained by the manufacture as necessary to assure all of the smaller passages, in the Twin Cam style engine, would stay clear of debris. If you run the 10 micron filter with an EVO style engine it will not be able to return oil through the filter fast enough causing the oil to back up into the lower end robbing power and/or causing oil to puke out of the lower end. The 30 micron filter is designed to work best for your Evolution style engine, the filtration is still excellent and it will not cause oiling issues. When it comes to filtering oil application is very important. There have been a lot of changes and updates too many filters on the market, with claims of better filtration, don't be fooled into using a filter that might not be the best for your bike. Go to your H-D shop and get filter part # 63796-77A, this is the Evo filter or the S&S equivalent Bikers Choice part # 49-5259. Some H-D shops will tell you that that Evo & Twin Cam filters are interchangeable but trust me, I learned this one the hard way!!! What type of oil should I use? S & S recommends a premium brand of 20W50 oil formulated specifically for motorcycle use for all Long Blocks. In Shovel-Style Long Blocks, 50 or even 60 wt oil is usually acceptable in hot areas where temperatures below 75 degrees are seldom encountered. In S & S's experience it is best to break the engine in with petroleum-based oil and, if a synthetic oil is preferred, change to synthetic after break-in.

Synthetic Oil – more important than you think!   When engines sit, oil drains from the metal components. As soon as you start it, your oil has to flow quickly to lubricate all those parts. But cold, used oil often doesn’t flow well and can actually thicken. So, at start-up, it’s least able to lubricate at a time when your engine needs it most. That’s where synthetic oils earn their keep. Synthetic oils are designed to resist thickening, allowing them to flow quickly, lubricating parts faster and helping to reduce wear during cold start-ups.   Combustion gases constantly flow past the piston rings and mix with the oil. Dust, dirt and other contaminants can get in too. Your oil keeps those contaminants in solution until your next oil change. That’s why it’s always important to change your oil at intervals recommended by your OEM (original equipment manufacturer).   Oil doesn’t mind the stop-and-go driving, but frequent stops lead to higher heat in the engine/oil zone. That can cause conventional oil molecules to break down. Synthetic oil can withstand the heat and continue to protect in these conditions, helping your engine to last longer.   .......Exxon Mobile 2009